Jacqui's Captive Bred Tortoises

HUSBANDRY AND HOUSING

Indoor enclosures can easily be created and quite cheaply if the golden rule of avoiding vivariums is applied. Vivariums are not considered to be suitable housing for tortoises, they cause stress and  illness. Tortoises do not understand glass and as long as they can see through it will spend their days trying to escape. The glass tank also provides a haven for the replication of mould spores and germs as it does not allow for sufficient air flow and this causes respiratory infections and can quickly lead to death. Petshops/Reptile shops are keen to sell vivariums as they are very profitable but there is a cheaper and much better way to house your tortoise.

The tortoise trust states on thier educational website  that disadvantages to vivaria  include :

.                 Poor ventilation. There is a high incidence of tortoises developing ‘Runny Nose Syndrome’,  other respiratory diseases, and shell infections if kept in small fully enclosed type glass or wooden vivarium-style housing. Specifically, the lack of ventilation can result in mould, fungus and similar problems arising.

·                 Lack of temperature gradients. A small enclosed vivarium is likely to be unsuitable for any species that requires a temperature gradient, or differential, to enable self-selection of body temperature. Failure to provide this will have very serious long-term consequences for health.

·                 Lack of microclimates.  All but the very largest ‘tank’ systems will have inadequate space and temperature gradients to permit the tortoise to self-select a suitable microclimate. Again, this has important consequences for long-term health and in addition such deprivation will result in unavoidable stress

·          Lack of “interest” and boredom. Tortoises that are kept in small enclosed "tanks" tend to exhibit lethargy (inactivity) and other unnatural behaviour patterns. By contrast, tortoises in suitable outdoor enclosures, or suitably large and well-designed indoor enclosures, will be much more alert and active.

·          Hygiene issues. Vivarium-style enclosures tend to be difficult to maintain, and pathogens can build up rapidly. This is one of the reasons reptile vets see so many sick animals that have a history of being kept in such accommodation.

.         Cost. Vivarium and glass “fish tank” enclosures are extremely costly per  square inch of usable space for a tortoise. Tortoises only need sides that are high enough to prevent escape. Fish tanks in particular are designed to provide maximum cubic capacity, not maximum floor area (which is what really matters to a tortoise). Spend the available budget creating as much FLOOR AREA as possible.

Most beginners fail to realise the importance of the issues described above, or simply believe the “expert in the pet shop” who promises that a 20/30/40  gallon aquarium, plus a heat pad, heat rock and basking lamp is “all you’ll ever need”. This is incorrect  and as a result, many newly acquired tortoises rapidly become ill and require costly veterinary treatment or die.

An excellent substitute for a vivarium is a large, plastic based indoor rabbit/guinea pig type cage. With or without the plastic coated bars on the top it provides adequate depth, good airflow, easy assembly and maintenance and an excellent home for young tortoises. However, as they grow and in the warmer weather, there is no substitute for garden access with the availability of an area to retreat to  in order to warm up! Again this can be created quite cheaply and simply.

Tortoises like roaming about, so if possible make the garden completely escape-proof.  Walled gardens are ideal but if you have to pen your tortoise in, allow at least 10 square metres per tortoise and make sure that the animal can neither climb over nor burrow under the surround.  Wire or wooden pens should be at least 40cm (16 ins) high, buried to a depth of 10cm (4 ins), with wooden stakes as support.  Garden ponds should be adequately covered to prevent risk of drowning. Tortoises do not swim!

A well ventilated greenhouse with access to a clover lawn and a paved sunbathing area is ideal for tortoises as in both spring and autumn the animals will be able to heat up sufficiently to feed well, thereby extending their year and shortening their hibernation period.  A lower pane of glass can be replaced with a panel of wood with an entrance hole or cat flap in it, thus ensuring that the tortoises can escape from overheating on the hottest summer days. A garden shed can also be converted in a similar way to provide outdoor home, with heat lamps etc and substrate inside on the floor for indoor use too. Security is of the optimum importance. Tortoises are valuable creatures and  have been stolen from gardens, so ensuring safety, especially at night, is very important.

I have tried and tested various methods including wooden units with planted seed trays, out door enclosures that are breeze block built with raised beds and enclosed garden runs with access to part of a greenhouse, conservatory or cold frame. The  precise construction and location or yours depends on the layout and aspect of your garden - a really sunny and safe spot is needed. Barriers should be opaque or they will try to get through them and netting should be avoided as tortoises use it like a ladder! Access to the outside is absolutely essential.

Babies should also be outside whenever it is warm enough even if not sunny as they need UV light to properly metabolize their food. Remember UV does not pass through glass or plastic. They can cope with rainy days too, if part of their area is glass or plastic covered and the ambient temperature is warm enough though they will only behave really naturally on sunny days. It is vital to keep stress to a minimum; the less interference there is with their daily lives, the happier and healthier they will be.

In terms of substrate, you can be as creative as you like as long as it is safe. The most used and recommended substrate is a mix of 50/50 PLAYSAND and TOPSOIL. This is available cheaply at DIY stores or garden centers. Corn chip, wood chip, sawdust, bark mulch, hay, hemp and other “supposed” reptile substrates are not advisable and do lead to illness and injury from ingestion, to eye pokes to build up and blockages in the digestive tract.

The indoor enclosure also needs a heat and UV lamp. The combined ones now easily available such as Mega Ray are exceptional lighting systems. They can be a little expensive initially costing around £50 however, they provide the best UV and the output lasts years, as opposed to the tube type that need changing every 6 months. Be sure to follow manufacturers guidance for fitting. It is advised that because the lamp is not on all year round, eg not in use during hibernation that it can safely be used for 2-3 years and that as long as the tortoise has laid down good bone growth (i.e  an adult/sub adult) it can infact be used until it blows, safely. If the filament lights it i putting out UV! It is also advisable to use several thermometers to check the temperature in the hot basking end and the cooler end of the enclosure. You are aiming for the high 90’s in the hottest part and the low 70’s in the cooler part. The tortoise will move in and out to regulate its own temperature. It is also useful to provide slate or flattish rocks for the tortoise to bask on but avoid objects that can cause them to over turn under the heat lamp as this can lead to certain death. It is also necessary to provide a cave/hide of some sort and these too can be sourced cheaply from reptile stores.

Warning: Never attempt tethering a tortoise by string round the leg which will cut off blood circulation and may result in gangrene or by boring holes through the shell, which will cut through live tissue and cause pain or infection. The RSPCA consider this to be animal cruelty and will prosecute for such practices!

Average set up needs:

Plastic indoor rabbit/guinea cage, minimum 3 foot or tortoise tabel, treated to be water proof or lined with plastic tray

Mega Ray basking/UV lamp 120W self ballasted

Clamp Lamp or ceramic lamp holder with shade (metal such as piglet/lamb lamps from agricultural suppliers)

Substrate 50/50 play sand (or B & Q KILN dried sand) and TOP SOIL

Cave or hide (Exo terra or wooden one)

Nutrobal calcium/D3 supplement (see later)

piece of cuttle fish to chew & keep beak down

2 thermometers for hot and cold end (aiming for a 10 degree gradient)

Slate/rocks sources from garden centre etc

Average set up cost around £150

Cost of my captive bred babies £120 as opposed to pet shop farmed babies @ £200 plus vivarium, heat mat and all the rubbish they will sell you, none of which you need but it makes the pet store a nice big profit!

Cost of ongoing advice and support from the writer £0

NB:  I will not allow any of my babies to go to households who wish to keep them in vivariums/tanks or on inappropriate substrate such as bark, wood chip or hemp.

The following are examples of simple indoor and outdoor enclosures, some of which I currently use and recommend.